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The walk over the high grass fields looking for the Kayan woman working her plot of land is still fresh in my mind. It took place two days ago, at noon and it was very hot. The dry grass was cutting my feet and spikes were all over my cotton dress. Many thoughts running through my head: are there any snakes hiding in the grass?it is definitely too hot for this time of the year.the landscape looks familiar, it reminds me of home.will the buffalo sense I am a stranger?are the bare feet of the little boy not hurting? In front of us a little boy and his father were showing us the way. Finally we reached the paddy field. We saw a very slim old Kayan old woman bent in two, concentrated on cutting rice stalks with a sickle.
The harvested crop was bundled all around her, on the dry earth, to ease the transport. Looking around there were only empty fields. The sun was blaring.
She looked up at us in surprise. This is just one of the many short stories I could write about my two-days trip in the Kayah State. The time spent there was such an enrichment for both eye, heart and mind. I remember the meeting with Rosalia, a Catholic woman, in the Demawso market. I hold her wrinkled hand. I think about my grandmother.
Rosalia is 70 years old but she looks older with her wrinkled face and bent back. She indeed tells us that she feels much older. All her children died, and she does not get along well with her family-in-law. A cross hangs from her neck.
She believes in God, and one of the few who are visiting her is the priest. I visited Loikaw and the surrounding area during a two-day visit. I met different ethnic tribes, I learnt more about the traditions and beliefs, and about the way of life of these people whose main source of livelihood remains agriculture. I visited Kayah State to admire the hills, lakes and the mountains which adorn the horizon, and to breathe the fresh air. This is the smallest state in Myanmar in terms of area and population, one hour flight from Yangon. Despite its small size, these lands are home to a multitude of tribes with such a rich culture, and unique traditions.
Once you arrive, and you travel outside Loikaw to different villages to see the different tribes (Kayah, Kayan, Kayin, Pa-O, etc), you will realise it is such a special place. I enjoyed very much the quietude and the laid back atmosphere of the villages, the fresh air in the mornings and the smell of flowers and grass during the day. I admired the beautiful traditional costumes and their unique accessories. Nowadays less and less villagers dress traditionally every day, and the reasons are easy to guess (expensive fabrics and accessories, reduced fields of cotton, inexpensive market clothes, many layers of fabrics - too hot).
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Lisu village. Book a hotel. We stayed at, and I would recommend you this cosy and new family-owned hotel. The owners, German and Myanmar, speak excellent English, and they will be very responsive to your emails and inquiries. You will feel like home. Additionally, they have their own fully-licensed in-house travel agency, Ancient Geographic Travels & Tours.